What power supply should i get ?

just wondering what power supply should i get which can support:



MOTHERBOARD: /Asus P8P67-LE-V3



3.5" HARD DISK DRIVE: Samsung 1T



RAM: 8G Kit 1600 patriot gamer2



VGA CARD: 1G GTX550Ti asus



DUAL LAYER DVDRW: SATA pioneer-219L



CASE: Antec Darkfleet DF-30



CPU: i5-2500K|||http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.as… be plenty for that card.



GeForce GTX 550 Ti The card, @ 100% full load only consumes 116 Watts. http://www.hwcompare.com/11137/geforce-g… . the Watt suggestion offered by companies always takes a full system into consideration. When they say 400W they understand what their card is consuming but the uninformed consumer that buys it may think otherwise if they only state power requirement 116W. This is even unrealistic. Your card is probably only going to be getting up to 80 or 90% load. If your card is constantly @ 100% load then it is an inefficient weak card relative to the game/program it is attempting to run and an upgrade is most certainly in order. You always want some head room when you are parts shopping.



This leaves a VERY generous 300W+ for the rest of your hardware.



SLI seems unrealistic with this board. Why? You do have 2 x PCIe 2.0 x16 slots BUT only one will be @ x16. The other one is going to be @ x4 which basically means that the 550ti when installed into this slot will not be able to perform the same as a board http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.as… that has 2 x PCIe 2.0 x16 that operate @ (x16, x8).That means that your first slot will be at x16 or if you go SLI they will run @ x8 x8 unles you have a board with 3 PCIe 2.0 x16 slots. This was just said because the G43 for example won't have one of those cards being slowed down to such an extreme x4 by the physical connection. Those slots are instead intended for some sound cards and other devices. NOT GFX cards. If you don't already have this board I would suggest the G43 from MSI. Either the Z68 or the P67.



If you do end up going SLI the right way with the right board then I suggest this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.as… . Instead of buying 1 now and then a proper 650W later just buy one now. This way you will be prepared for any upgrades in the future and is the more cost effective solution for your PSU quandry.



Operating System

MS Windows 7 64-bit SP1

CPU

Intel Core i5 2500K @ 4.20GHz 30 °C

Sandy Bridge 32nm Technology

RAM

8.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 665MHz (9-9-9-25)

Motherboard

MSI P67A-G43 (MS-7673) (SOCKET 0) 33 °C

Graphics

DELL 1704FPV (1280x1024@75Hz)

COMPAQ FS7600 (1024x768@85Hz)

1280MB GeForce GTX 570 Classified HD (EVGA) 37 °C

Hard Drives

977GB Seagate ST31000528AS ATA Device (SATA) 28 °C

156GB Seagate ST3160812AS ATA Device (SATA) 27 °C

78GB Western Digital WDC WD800JD-00MSA1 ATA Device (SATA) 28 °C

Optical Drives

ATAPI iHAS124 Y ATA Device

ASUS DRW-22B2S b ATA Device

Audio

Realtek High Definition Audio



Lastly I suggest a better cooler than the stock included with the 2500K retail box.



http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.as… closed water cooler if you are buying a mid-tower case and want to optimize the airflow through your case.



http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.as… still a good solution for an aftermarket socket 1155 CPU cooler that won't break the bank.



http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.as… my cooler that is a BEAST and is best installed in a FULL tower like an Azza 2000R which doesn't seem likely for your budget build.|||"System Requirements



* Minimum of a 400 power supply (Minimum recommended power supply with +12 Volt current rating of 24 Amps.)



Operating System(s):



* Windows 7 32/64 - Bit

* Windows Vista 32/64 - Bit

* Windows XP 32/64 - Bit"



Add 200W, for overhead.